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The Women in Whiskey
Walk into almost any whiskey bar and you'll see the same all, rows of bottles bearing the names of men. Beam. Walker. Daniel. Dewar. Taketsuru. Bushmills. The story of whiskey, as it's most often told, is a story of fathers and sons, founders and patriarchs, men with their faces on the labels. But that story is, at best, half a story. From the frontier stills of 1818 Kentucky to the warehouses of modern Speyside, women have been making whiskey, and shaping how the world drinks it, the entire time. Some did it in plain sight. Most did it without their names on anything.
This is a brief education in who they were, and who they are. Worth knowing whether you're pouring at home or stocking a back bar.
The Pioneers
Part One — Two Centuries of Hidden HandsThe earliest documented women in whiskey weren't celebrated. They were doing the work, distilling, recipe-keeping, running operations through wars and prohibitions, and the records that survive are largely accidental. A handwritten ledger. A court case. A flag pole.
Catherine Spears Frye Carpenter
Casey County, Kentucky • 1818The oldest known sour mash recipe in America was written in Catherine Spears Frye Carpenter's hand, in 1818, more than a decade before Dr. James Crow is conventionally credited with codifying the technique. Catherine was a widow running her late husband's farm distillery in central Kentucky at a time when nearly every farm with surplus corn made whiskey, and many of those farms were quietly being run by women. Her notebook survives in the Filson Historical Society in Louisville. It is, in a real sense, the foundation document of bourbon-making.
Helen Cumming
Cardhu Distillery, Speyside • 1820sWhen the Scottish excisemen came looking for illicit whisky, Helen Cumming raised a red flag on the rooftop of her farmhouse to warn the neighbouring distillers. Then she invited the officers in for tea while gallons of unlicensed whisky cooled in flour barrels under the floorboards. Helen and her husband John ran an illicit still on Mannoch Hill above Knockando. They went legitimate when the Excise Act of 1823 made licensed distilling viable, and the operation they built became Cardhu, today one of the great Speyside houses and a key component of Johnnie Walker. After Helen's death the distillery passed to her daughter-in-law, Elizabeth Cumming, who turned it into a commercial powerhouse.
Mary Dowling
Waterfill & Frazier • Prohibition EraBy the time Prohibition arrived in 1920, Mary Dowling had been running the Waterfill & Frazier distillery in Anderson County, Kentucky for nearly two decades — an Irish-born Catholic woman in a Protestant, male industry, built into one of the largest bourbon operations in the state. Volstead was meant to end her career. It did not. Mary hired Joseph Beam, cousin to Jim, to dismantle the entire distillery, brick by brick, and ship it across the border to Juárez, Mexico. There she rebuilt Waterfill & Frazier and kept distilling for the next thirteen years. Some of the bourbon came back into the United States legally as medicinal whiskey. Some did not. Either way, Mary outlasted Prohibition.
Rita Taketsuru — Jessie Roberta Cowan
The Mother of Japanese Whisky • 1920s onwardA Glasgow shorthand-typist's daughter named Jessie Roberta Cowan met a Japanese chemistry student, Masataka Taketsuru, while he was studying at Glasgow University in 1918. They married in 1920, against the wishes of both families, and Rita followed Masataka to Japan to help him build something that did not yet exist there: a Scottish-style whisky industry. She lived for years in cultural and linguistic isolation, taught English to make ends meet, and quietly underwrote ,emotionally and practically, the work that became Yamazaki for Suntory in 1923, and then her husband's own venture, Nikka, in Hokkaido in 1934. Without Rita's Scottish connections, language skills and quiet stamina, there is no Japanese whisky as we know it. She is honoured in Japan as the mother of the category, and never returned to Scotland.
Margie Samuels
Maker's Mark • 1953The red wax. The square bottle. The name "Maker's Mark" itself. Margie Samuels designed all of it. When her husband Bill bought the old Burks Distillery in 1953 to start a new bourbon, he handled the liquid, Margie handled everything else. She named the brand, drawing on her interest in pewter, where craftsmen press a personal "mark" into each piece. She designed the bottle. And she invented the wax-dipped seal, initially by melting wax on her own kitchen stove and dipping the early bottles by hand. In 2014 she became the first woman inducted into the Bourbon Hall of Fame. Most of what makes Maker's Mark instantly recognisable on a back-bar shelf is the work of one woman in a Loretto kitchen.
Bessie Williamson
Laphroaig, Islay • 1934 – 1972In 1934, a Glasgow University graduate named Bessie Williamson took a summer typing job at Laphroaig on Islay. She never left. The distillery's owner, Ian Hunter, recognised her capability and progressively handed her more responsibility through the late 1930s and 1940s. When Hunter's health declined, Bessie effectively ran the operation. When he died in 1954, his will left Laphroaig to her, making Bessie the first woman to own and operate a Scotch whisky distillery in the modern era. She ran Laphroaig for the next eighteen years, and is widely credited with putting Islay's smoky, peated style on the world map by championing it in American markets through the post-war decades.
The Women Shaping Whiskey Today
Part Two — A Global RenaissanceThe last twenty years have seen a quiet but seismic shift. Women hold the Master Distiller, Master Blender and Malt Master roles at some of the most important whiskey houses in the world. Many are the first women in those jobs in the modern history of their distilleries. None are tokens. They earned the seat by walking the same rickhouse floors and reading the same casks as anyone before them — and in many cases, they're producing the most acclaimed whiskies of their distilleries' modern eras.
Marianne Eaves
Castle & Key • KentuckyA chemical engineer by training, Marianne Eaves began her career at Brown-Forman, working under Chris Morris at Woodford Reserve. In 2015 she joined a wildly ambitious project: the resurrection of the old Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky — the storied Old Taylor site, dormant for decades, complete with its limestone springhouse and castle-like architecture. As Castle & Key's first Master Distiller, Marianne became the first female Master Distiller in Kentucky since Prohibition — a gap of more than eighty years. The whiskey she laid down in those rickhouses is now reaching maturity. She has since left Castle & Key to consult independently across the industry.
Elizabeth McCall
Woodford Reserve • KentuckyElizabeth McCall is a second-generation Kentucky whiskey-maker — her mother Renee worked at Brown-Forman before her — and she came up through the company's sensory analysis programme before moving onto the Woodford Reserve floor. She apprenticed under Chris Morris for nearly a decade as Assistant Master Distiller, and in 2023 was named Master Distiller of Woodford Reserve. She is only the third person to hold that title in the brand's modern era, and the first woman. Her palate, sensory rigour and quiet authority are now shaping one of America's most iconic bourbon houses.
Brit Kulsveen
Willett Distillery • KentuckyWillett is one of the most cult-followed names in American whiskey — a family-owned distillery in Bardstown whose teardrop-shaped Pot Still Reserve bottle is instantly recognisable, and whose limited single-barrel releases are chased internationally by collectors. The family revival of the operation began in 1984 when Norwegian-born Even Kulsveen married into the Willett family and set about restoring it. Today his daughter Brit serves as President and Chief Whiskey Officer — the third generation to lead the distillery. Under her stewardship, Willett has continued to expand its in-house distillation while protecting the small-batch, family-run character that made its reputation.
Pam Heilmann
Michter's • KentuckyPam Heilmann spent more than two decades at Jim Beam, working her way up through the production ranks to become a Master Distiller — a long apprenticeship in one of America's largest whiskey operations. In 2016 she was named Master Distiller at Michter's, becoming the first woman in modern history to lead a Kentucky Distillers' Association member distillery. Her tenure at Michter's coincided with some of the brand's most acclaimed releases in its allocation-obsessed modern era. She was inducted into the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame in 2018. Few careers in American whiskey carry the kind of breadth — both volume operation and craft house — that hers does.
Dr. Rachel Barrie
GlenDronach, BenRiach & Glenglassaugh • ScotlandAn Aberdeen native and Edinburgh-trained chemist, Rachel Barrie began her career at the Scotch Whisky Research Institute before joining Glenmorangie in 1995. There she was central to the development of the brand's celebrated cask-finishing programme. She moved to Bowmore for a decade, and now serves as Master Blender for Brown-Forman's Scotch portfolio — three distinct, historic distilleries in GlenDronach, BenRiach and Glenglassaugh. She is one of only a handful of women honoured as a Keeper of the Quaich, holds an honorary doctorate from Robert Gordon University, and is widely regarded as one of the defining voices of the modern sherry-cask renaissance. When Rachel signs a cask, the industry pays attention.
Katherine Condon
Irish Distillers, Midleton • IrelandMidleton is the spiritual home of modern Irish whiskey — the distillery behind Redbreast, Green Spot, Powers, Jameson and the experimental Method and Madness range. Katherine Condon joined Irish Distillers in 2014 and has become one of the most visible faces of the next generation at Midleton, with particular involvement in the Method and Madness micro distillery, where Midleton tests unconventional grain bills, cask finishes and pot still techniques. She represents Irish whiskey's contemporary moment: rigorously science-led, deeply respectful of the pot still tradition, and unafraid to push it forward.
Emiko Kaji
Nikka Whisky • JapanEmiko Kaji is the global voice of Nikka — the company founded by Masataka Taketsuru in 1934, with the unwavering support of his Scottish wife Rita. As International Brand Ambassador and senior executive, Emiko has become the public face of Japanese whisky's most heritage-rich house in markets from London to New York to Sydney. There is a quiet symmetry in her role: a Japanese woman carrying the legacy of Rita Taketsuru — the Scotswoman who helped will Japanese whisky into existence — into a new global era.
What This Story Tells Us
A Brief ReflectionYou can read the contemporary list and the historical list side by side and notice something. The pioneers were almost always there because of circumstance — widowhood, illegality, displacement, an unusual marriage. Many ran whiskey because the men in their lives had died or been made absent by Prohibition or war. Their work survives because of accident more often than design.
The women shaping whiskey today are there because of credentials. Chemistry degrees. Sensory science. Years of apprenticeship. Engineering. Leadership of distilling operations measured in millions of cases. The line between Catherine Spears Frye Carpenter writing out a sour mash recipe in 1818 and Elizabeth McCall directing Woodford Reserve in 2026 is two centuries long, but it is unbroken.
The labels on the bottles take a while to catch up to the people who made the whiskey. They always have. The most informed thing you can do, as a drinker, is know the names anyway.